Svaneti tours off the beaten track
Not long ago, Svaneti was a conservative, remote, mountainous area where few outsiders ventured. Today, it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Georgia, thanks to its stunning location between two of the highest ridges of the Caucasus Mountains and its rich cultural and architectural heritage, including utterly unique medieval church frescoes, a chillingly beautiful tradition of polyphonic singing, and centuries-old defensive stone towers scattered around the steep slopes of the villages. The “land lost by time” vibe has been largely lost in the main centers of Mestia and Ushguli as the concrete flows and modern hotels and bars spring up by the dozen, but nothing can spoil the spectacular landscape or the countless secret treasures hidden away along the different valleys.
Many visitors to Svaneti come for trekking – a village-to-village route between Mestia and Ushguli with overnight stays in guesthouses is one of the most popular and comfortable distance treks in Georgia. Naturally, in a region of mountains, there are many more pathways to be traveled, and any hiker of reasonable endurance will find plenty of enjoyable possibilities. While the mountains in summer and early autumn are of themselves heavenly, I would recommend, while in Svaneti, trying to visit a more physical shrine at least once. The Svans, who in fact never fully decided if they would be pagan or Christian, were the only Georgian people whose remoteness kept them safe from the raids of foreign invaders, and the religious art preserved in the small village churches is some of the most interesting in the whole country. To this day, Svans take their customs rather seriously, even more so than other Georgians, and the old places of worship still strongly feel like a spiritual gateway to a different kind of world.
Feel free to get in touch if you would be interested in fully customized Svaneti tours with me!
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One of the famous Svanetian family defensive towers.
The riverbank of the Tskhenistskali River in Lower Svaneti.
View towards Tsvirmi village.
A view from the hills above Mestia, Svaneti’s largest town.
Trekking down to Shkedi village from Racha.
Cows graze below the Caucasus in Chvabiani village.